12/28/12

Board Info

I'm back from Christmas in Joburg and since there's no sea there, I haven't been surfing. I thought I'd give you  some information about our "learner" boards. Mine is 6'6" tall and about 2" thick (surfboards are measured in feet and inches). They are thicker than short boards so they are more buoyant. Being longer and thicker makes it easy to stand on and easy to learn how to surf. Proper long boards are thinner and much longer.
That's mine (white) and Thaila's (yellow)


Steve (Our family friend who is the beach manager/lifeguard) came over today. He asked if he could buy Thaila's board when she's done with it. Apparently it is a 1980's Classic. Nice...and we always made fun of it for being yellow. Sorry Thai.


12/16/12

Day 2 Holiday Surfing


I went out to Durban all by myself, once again (Thaila and Rachel have family over). I got there and joined Dion and his group of beginners. Most of them were still catching foamies but Dion told me to go out to backline. The waves were amazing. At first I couldn't get the hang of it and Dion called me back to shore. He gave me a pep talk and made me catch one foamie. Afterwards I went back out to backline and started catching some nice open faces waves. I caught a  few really good ones but i need to practice the way I get up on my board. I met another girl while at backline. Her name was Colleen. She looked a bit older than me and was also learning with Dion.

Tips from the Dion Jar:
- Always surf where the other surfers are catching waves
- Paddle when you see a "wave lump" and only stand when your board has dropped in front off the wave.
- Wave selection is very important (He said mine is excellent)
- Surf more often


I've been looking for a backpack for a while now. I hate carrying satchels or handbags. I finally found one at a Christmas market. I take it everywhere with me. I put all my surfing stuff in it when i go to Durban. The lady that sold it to me said that a towel wouldn't fit...I proved her wrong :)






My mom and I went and bought my brother's Christmas present. I had to do all the talking while asking about the features and stuff (because my mom trying was a little embarrassing). After looking at all our options and  bargaining  a bit, we bought this beauty from an attractive sales guy at a surf shop.





12/9/12

In The Newspaper

The yoga for rhinos charity was posted in the newspaper. We raised more than R9 000! There's me at the back.


12/8/12

Day 1 Holiday Surfing

Today Rachel, Thaila and I went down to Durban as usual.. The waves were really good. There was a strong side and back wash though. We didn't catch much. At backline  I was watching the other surfers that had long boards like us. They also can't duckdive so when a wave comes they would flip themselves onto the underside of their board so that the wave doesn't hit them and drag their board behind them (and rip their leg off). I tried it....and got the whole ocean down my throat. Thaila tried it and it worked (because like a normal person she blew out bubbles underwater).  


Afterwards we went to the I heart market.  Rachel bought a present for her mom. We bought macaroons (A cookie made with egg white, sugar, and ground almonds or coconut) EXPENSIVE...but delicious. It was hot so we left early.











12/2/12

Bluebottles

I went out to Durban without Rachel and Thaila today (they were busy). Dion was there and he took my mom and I down onto the beach to show us that it was a waste of time. There was an on-shore wind which brought in truck loads of bluebottles.  The waves were choppy and rough. 
My mom and I left. We just drove around Durban for a while. 



Afterwards we started driving home, but took a detour into Umdloti. We drove along the beach looking at the waves. No one was in the water. It looked a bit dodgy. The waves were rough but better than Durban. I decided that I would just go for a swim first to see how rough it was, and if there was a rip, before I took my board in.


It was freezing. Not too rough and no rip, but still a bit sketchy that I'd be the only one in the water. I would have gone out if Rachel and Thaila were with me.  On our way out of Umdloti we passed this adorable little hippy house.