This morning the waves were huge. But they weren't foamie huge. They were really good, huge open face waves, and they weren't choppy at all. Getting out to backline was pretty tough. Jessie and I made it the first time but Thaila and Rachel struggled for a while. Eventually Thaila made it and Jessie went back to help Rachel.
There was a lot of people on surf ski's. I think it's a nippers club. One of them bumped into my bored and chipped the nose :( There were 2 competitions going on along the beach. One surfing and one surf skiing.
I found out that there are right waves and left waves. When you turn on your surfboard, you have to turn the way the wave is going or else it wont work. You need to know if you're natural or goofy (left or right foot in front) This will help you to know which waves you can catch.
There was a lot of people on surf ski's. I think it's a nippers club. One of them bumped into my bored and chipped the nose :( There were 2 competitions going on along the beach. One surfing and one surf skiing.
I found out that there are right waves and left waves. When you turn on your surfboard, you have to turn the way the wave is going or else it wont work. You need to know if you're natural or goofy (left or right foot in front) This will help you to know which waves you can catch.
In the end I only caught one really nice one. Rachel just stayed near shore and caught foamies, and Thaila cut her foot on her fin. It was quite a rough day. I think the worst feeling is getting dragged by your leash after a huge wave. Oh and hip-bone bruises aren't the most fun either.
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